Kids Chunky Slipper Crochet Pattern
Pictured here in Purl Essence Angel Hair Stripes in "lime" (available from Joann's Fabrics and Crafts).
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Materials: Measuring tape, yarn needle for weaving in ends, puffy paint or liquid stitch (optional)
Yarn: 7 oz or less of #5 chunky weight fuzzy yarn. My favorite brand of yarn for these slippers is Sensations (Purl Essence) Angel Hair (from Joann’s), but any #5 weight chunky yarn can be substituted.
Gauge: See gauge checkpoints given in pattern after Rnd 3 for each size.
Hook Size: “K” (6.5 mm) hook -- I use Boye brand crochet hooks.
Sizes: Toddler through Big Kids Sizes are included. See size charts below.
Abbreviations Used:
st or sts - stitch or stitches
ch - chain stitch
dc - double crochet
fpsc - front post single crochet
fpdc - front post double crochet
bpdc - back post double crochet
fpdc2tog - front post double crochet 2 stitches together
sl st - slip stitch
rnd(s) - round(s)
sp - space
ea - each
beg - beginning
prev - previous
YO - Yarn Over
Special Stitches Definitions:
Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc): Working from the front, YO and insert the hook from right to left under the post of the double crochet indicated from the previous round. YO and complete the stitch as a double crochet.
Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc): Working from the back, YO and insert the hook from right to left over the post of the double crochet indicated from the previous round. YO and complete the stitch as a double crochet.
Front Post Single Crochet (fpsc): Insert hook from the front side of the work (right to left) under the post of the indicated stitch, YO and pull up a loop, YO and draw through two loops.
Front Post Double Crochet 2 Stitches Together (fpdc2tog): Working from the front, YO and insert the hook from right to left under the posts of the next two stitches. YO and pull up a loop, YO and draw through two loops, YO and draw through remaining 2 loops on hook.
How to use the Size Charts:
The detailed measurements in the size charts are given to determine the child’s shoe size. Select either the child’s shoe size or the actual measurement of child’s foot (measurements are given for both inches and centimeters) and go to that section of the pattern. The final measurement of the slippers should be the actual foot size (or a half inch larger to account for the chunky yarn). The slippers can fit a wide range of sizes and will stretch a lot in the length after being worn.
Toddler Sizes (approximately 18 months - 4 years) USE TODDLER VERSION OF PATTERN.
Highlighted column equals actual foot length in inches.
US Sizes
|
Euro Sizes
|
UK Sizes
|
Inches
|
CM
|
5.5
|
21
|
4.5
|
5”
|
12.7
|
6
|
22
|
5
|
5.125”
|
13
|
6.5
|
22
|
5.5
|
5.25”
|
13.3
|
7
|
23
|
6
|
5.5”
|
14
|
7.5
|
23
|
6.5
|
5.625”
|
14.3
|
8
|
24
|
7
|
5.75”
|
14.6
|
8.5
|
25
|
7.5
|
6”
|
15.2
|
9
|
25
|
8
|
6.125”
|
15.6
|
9.5
|
26
|
8.5
|
6.25”
|
15.9
|
10
|
27
|
9
|
6.5”
|
16.5
|
Little Kid Sizes (approximately 4 - 7 years) USE LITTLE KIDS VERSION OF PATTERN.
Highlighted column equals actual foot length in inches.
US Sizes
|
Euro Sizes
|
UK Sizes
|
Inches
|
CM
|
10.5
|
27
|
9.5
|
6.625”
|
16.8
|
11
|
28
|
10
|
6.75”
|
17.1
|
11.5
|
29
|
10.5
|
7”
|
17.8
|
12
|
30
|
11
|
7.125”
|
18.1
|
12.5
|
30
|
11.5
|
7.25”
|
18.4
|
13
|
31
|
12
|
7.5”
|
19.1
|
13.5
|
31
|
12.5
|
7.625”
|
19.4
|
1
|
32
|
13
|
7.75”
|
19.7
|
1.5
|
33
|
14
|
8”
|
20.3
|
2
|
33
|
1
|
8.125”
|
20.6
|
2.5
|
34
|
1.5
|
8.25”
|
21
|
3
|
34
|
2
|
8.5”
|
21.6
|
Big Kid Sizes (approximately 7 - 12 years) USE BIG KIDS VERSION OF PATTERN.
Highlighted column equals actual foot length in inches.
US Sizes
|
Euro Sizes
|
UK Sizes
|
Inches
|
CM
|
3.5
|
35
|
2.5
|
8.625”
|
21.9
|
4
|
36
|
3
|
8.75”
|
22.2
|
4.5
|
36
|
3.5
|
9”
|
22.9
|
5
|
37
|
4
|
9.125”
|
23.2
|
5.5
|
37
|
4.5
|
9.25”
|
23.5
|
6
|
38
|
5
|
9.5”
|
24.1
|
6.5
|
38
|
5.5
|
9.625”
|
24.4
|
7
|
39
|
6
|
9.75”
|
24.8
|
TODDLER CHUNKY SLIPPERS:
Use bulky (#5) yarn and “K” (6.5 mm) hook, or to match gauge checkpoint given after Rnd 3.
Note: The ‘ch 2’ is counted in stitch count until otherwise noted. When pattern says “dc in top of same post just used”, both the fpdc and the dc are made in the same stitch (the fpdc is around the post, the dc is in the top of the stitch).
Rnd 1: Magic ring, ch 2, 7 dc in ring, join with sl st in top of ‘ch 2’. (8)
OR ch 2, 8 dc in 2nd ch from hook, join with sl st in first dc. (8)
Rnd 2: ch 2, [fpdc around next st directly below, dc in top of same post just used] to end of rnd, beg ‘ch 2’ counts as last dc, join with sl st in top of ‘ch 2’. (16)
Note: The “fpsc and ch 2” at the beginning of the following rnds creates a st that looks like a fpdc. Be sure to crochet the fpsc tightly around the post so it doesn’t bulge at the base of the ‘ch 2’. You’ll know you’re doing it correctly if it looks very similar to a fpdc. Starting the rnd in this fashion (instead of a standard ‘ch 2’) will result in a seam that is almost completely invisible. The “fpsc and ch 2 combo” counts as the first fpdc in each rnd after Rnd 3.
Rnd 3: fpsc around first fpdc from prev rnd, ch 2 (counts as first fpdc), fpdc around ea st to end of rnd, last fpdc will be around ‘ch 2’ from prev rnd, join with sl st in top of beg ‘ch 2’. (16)
Gauge check: Diameter of circle should measure approximately 3 to 3.25” here.
Rnd 4: fpsc around first fpdc from prev rnd, ch 2 (counts as first fpdc), fpdc around ea st to end of rnd, join with sl st in top of beg ‘ch 2’. (16)
Repeat Rnd 4 until you reach the following measurement below: (See chart for Euro and UK conversions.) Measure from center of magic ring to edge of slipper.
US Toddler Size 5.5 to 7: Continue until slipper measures approximately 2.75 to 3.25”.
US Toddler Size 7.5 to 8.5: Continue until slipper measures approximately 3.25 to 3.75”.
US Toddler Size 9 to 10: Continue until slipper measures approximately 3.75 to 4.25”.
Continue on to Heel (see note below first).
Note on final length of slipper: The total FINAL slipper length after completing the heel should not be larger than than the actual measurement of the foot. These slippers will stretch a LOT once they are worn. Do not make them longer than the actual foot measurement or they will end up too big! These slippers stretch so much in the length that most kids will wear them out before they outgrow them!
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
LITTLE KIDS CHUNKY SLIPPERS:
Use bulky (#5) yarn and “K” (6.5 mm) hook, or to match gauge checkpoint given after Rnd 3.
Note: The ‘ch 2’ is counted in stitch count until otherwise noted. When pattern says “dc in top of same post just used”, both the fpdc and the dc are made in the same stitch (the fpdc is around the post, the dc is in the top of the stitch).
Rnd 1: Magic ring, ch 2, 8 dc in ring, join with sl st in top of ‘ch 2’. (9)
OR ch 2, 9 dc in 2nd ch from hook, join with sl st in first dc. (9)
Rnd 2: ch 2, [fpdc around next st directly below, dc in top of same post just used] to end of rnd, beg ‘ch 2’ counts as last dc, join with sl st in top of ‘ch 2’. (18)
Note: The “fpsc and ch 2” at the beginning of the following rnds creates a st that looks like a fpdc. Be sure to crochet the fpsc tightly around the post so it doesn’t bulge at the base of the ‘ch 2’. You’ll know you’re doing it correctly if it looks very similar to a fpdc. Starting the rnd in this fashion (instead of a standard ‘ch 2’) will result in a seam that is almost completely invisible. The “fpsc and ch 2 combo” counts as the first fpdc in each rnd after Rnd 3.
Rnd 3: fpsc around first fpdc from prev rnd, ch 2 (counts as first fpdc), fpdc around ea st to end of rnd, last fpdc will be around ‘ch 2’ from prev rnd, join with sl st in top of beg ‘ch 2’. (18)
Gauge check: Diameter of circle should measure approximately 3.5 to 3.75” here.
Rnd 4: fpsc around first fpdc from prev rnd, ch 2 (counts as first fpdc), fpdc around ea st to end of rnd, join with sl st in top of beg ‘ch 2’. (18)
Repeat Rnd 4 until you reach the following measurement below: (See chart for Euro and UK conversions.) Measure from center of magic ring to edge of slipper.
US Little Kid Size 10.5 to 12: Continue until slipper measures approx. 4.25 to 4.75”.
US Little Kid Size 12.5 to 1: Continue until slipper measures approximately 5 to 5.5”.
US Little Kid Size 1.5 to 3: Continue until slipper measures approximately 5.75 to 6.25”.
Continue on to Heel (see note below first).
Note on final length of slipper: The total FINAL slipper length after completing the heel should not be larger than than the actual measurement of the foot. These slippers will stretch a LOT once they are worn. Do not make them longer than the actual foot measurement or they will end up too big! These slippers stretch so much in the length that most kids will wear them out before they outgrow them!
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
BIG KIDS CHUNKY SLIPPERS:
Use bulky (#5) yarn and “K” (6.5 mm) hook, or to match gauge checkpoint given after Rnd 3.
Note: The ‘ch 2’ is counted in stitch count until otherwise noted. When pattern says “dc in top of same post just used”, both the fpdc and the dc are made in the same stitch (the fpdc is around the post, the dc is in the top of the stitch).
Rnd 1: Magic ring, ch 2, 9 dc in ring, join with sl st in top of ‘ch 2’. (10)
OR ch 2, 10 dc in 2nd ch from hook, join with sl st in first dc. (10)
Rnd 2: ch 2, [fpdc around next st directly below, dc in top of same post just used] to end of rnd, beg ‘ch 2’ counts as last dc, join with sl st in top of ‘ch 2’. (20)
Note: The “fpsc and ch 2” at the beginning of the following rnds creates a st that looks like a fpdc. Be sure to crochet the fpsc tightly around the post so it doesn’t bulge at the base of the ‘ch 2’. You’ll know you’re doing it correctly if it looks very similar to a fpdc. Starting the rnd in this fashion (instead of a standard ‘ch 2’) will result in a seam that is almost completely invisible. The “fpsc and ch 2 combo” counts as the first fpdc in each rnd after Rnd 3.
Rnd 3: fpsc around first fpdc from prev rnd, ch 2 (counts as first fpdc), fpdc around ea st to end of rnd, last fpdc will be around ‘ch 2’ from prev rnd, join with sl st in top of beg ‘ch 2’. (20)
Gauge check: Diameter of circle should measure approximately 3.5 to 3.75” here.
Rnd 4: fpsc around first fpdc from prev rnd, ch 2 (counts as first fpdc), fpdc around ea st to end of rnd, join with sl st in top of beg ‘ch 2’. (20)
Repeat Rnd 4 until you reach the following measurement below: (See chart for Euro and UK conversions.) Measure from center of magic ring to edge of slipper.
US Size 3.5 to 4.5: Continue until slipper measures approximately 6.25 to 6.75”.
US Size 5 to 6: Continue until slipper measures approximately 6.75 to 7.25”.
US Size 6.5 to 7: Continue until slipper measures approximately 7.25 to 7.5”.
Continue on to Heel (see note below first).
Note on final length of slipper: The total FINAL slipper length after completing the heel should not be larger than than the actual measurement of the foot. These slippers will stretch a LOT once they are worn. Do not make them longer than the actual foot measurement or they will end up too big! These slippers stretch so much in the length that most kids will wear them out before they outgrow them!
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
HEEL: (ALL SIZES)
Turn slipper inside out, count the “ridges” inside. This is an easy way to make the other slipper the same size, instead of having to keep track of your rnds. Record this number so you know when to stop with the 2nd slipper. Turn slipper back right side out.
Note: This next section is now worked in ROWS instead of RNDS.
Row 1: ch 2, fpdc around post directly below ch 2 and ea of next (13, 15, 17) post sts from prev rnd, dc in top of same post just used for last fpdc, leave remaining 2 fpdc unworked. (14, 16, 18 fpdc plus the ch 2 and dc)
Row 2: ch 2, turn, bpdc around ea post st from prev row, dc in top of turning ch. (14, 16, 18 bpdc plus the ch 2 and dc)
Row 3: ch 2, turn, fpdc around ea post st from prev row, dc in top of turning ch. (14, 16, 18 fpdc plus the ch 2 and dc)
Row 4: Repeat Row 2.
Note: The fpdc2tog is worked differently in this pattern. See definition below.
Definition of fpdc2tog for Row 5: Working from the front, YO and insert the hook from right to left under the posts of the next two stitches. YO and pull up a loop, YO and draw through two loops, YO and draw through remaining 2 loops on hook.
Row 5: ch 2, turn, fpdc around next (4, 5, 6) post sts from prev row, fpdc2tog 3 times, fpdc around next (4, 5, 6) post sts, dc in top of turning ch. (11, 13, 15 fpdc plus the ch 2 and dc)
Turn slipper inside out, ch 1, sl st back seam together (use both loops of each stitch). Do not fasten off, ch 1, turn, and sl st back up to top. Turn slipper right side out again.
Continue on to Cuff below.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
CUFF: (ALL SIZES)
Rnd 1: Now working around the foot opening, ch 2 and dc evenly around, (spacing a minimum of at least 16-18 dc for toddler sizes, 18-20 dc for little kids sizes, and 20-22 dc for big kids sizes (for a snug fitting cuff). (The number of stitches in the cuff can be adjusted to your preference.) Try to end with an even number. Count number of stitches and record so second slipper will match. Join with sl st in top of ch 2.
Rnd 2: fpsc around post of first dc from prev rnd (should be directly below where you joined), ch 2 (serves as first fpdc), bpdc around next st, *fpdc around next st, bpdc around next st*, repeat between *...* to end of rnd, join with sl st in top of first fpdc.
Rnd 3: fpsc around post of first fpdc from prev rnd, ch 2 (serves as first fpdc), bpdc around next st, *fpdc around next st, bpdc around next st*, repeat between *...* to end of rnd, join with sl st in top of first fpdc.
Repeat Rnd 3 until height of cuff reaches desired length. For a short cuff, repeating once more is enough. Otherwise, repeat as many times as desired (make note of the number of times you repeat this rnd so you can match with the other slipper). Fasten off with invisible join and weave in ends.
Note: Some yarns will be more slippery than others on smooth or hardwood floors. If you find the finished slippers to be too slippery, try adding dabs of puffy paint or liquid stitch to the bottom to prevent slipping.
Photo is copyright Nakesha Haschke of Bean Sprout Boutique. Thank you, Nakesha!
You are absolutely welcome to sell your finished items from this pattern in any manner you choose. However, do not copy, share, or redistribute the pattern itself in any way. Please provide a link to my website if you sell your finished items online. (If you change the name when you sell your item, please mention the pattern name in the link so other people can find the pattern.)
Kids Chunky Slipper Pattern by Crochet by Jennifer
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